Tuesday, March 31, 2009
It would be good to let you readers know that the group of 14 of us UNI kids returned to Oviedo from a long weekend in Paris by autobus this morning at 11AM. I then came home, unpacked, went to school (the only day for the next two weeks), blogged, Skyped with mom and dad, and caught up on mountainous amounts of emails. Around 10PM I found out that we could only bring one suitcase to Rome between the four of us girls, much of which was to be full of food. We were all running around frantically, and I stayed up until 4AM packing (after talking to my padres for a few hours).
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Got up at 6AM. Ashley, Kristi, Trisha, and I left the Oviedo bus station at 7:30AM to go fly out of Santander. We took the Supera bus—complete with a bus attendant, a free sandwich and chocolate, and a movie. When we got to the airport check-in, our suitcase was 30 lbs. overweight. So we had to go into the bathroom and throw away jars of peanut butter (AKA liquid gold), jelly, rice, pasta, granola, cans of veggies, etc. The bin was overflowing, and we really hoped that someone would find it all and take it home. L We also stuffed food into our backpacks, which were already full with our clothes for the 13-day vacation. When we arrived in Rome around 4PM we caught a bus into the city. We found our hostel that we had booked for all 7 nights in Rome. It was a pretty sketchy neighborhood, and the place was looking pretty dark. We rang the doorbell, and no one. We called the number from their website we had just been on the day before, and the number had been disconnected. Uh oh. Randomly this old Italian man walks by and asks us if we’re here for the hostel. We told him yes and asked what was going on. Apparently two weeks prior the place had been shut down by the police because it was too dirty and they were cramming something like 30 people into each bedroom. (Silence) Wow, okay, umm, now what? The old man offered to take us up to the fourth floor to see the police notice on the door, but he said he could only take two of us at a time, soo um, thanks dude, but no thanks. Then he disappeared. So we’ve got four American girls with their backpacks and a huge suitcase full of random food standing in the middle of what we later found out to be the sketchiest neighborhood in Rome, and it was starting to rain and get dark. Trying to stay as rational and calm as possible, we started making our way back to the bus station to figure something out. On the way, some younger Italian guy says his only two English words, “Sexy, beautiful” to Ashley, and I was sure she was going to go off on him right then and there. When we got back to the station we raced to the emergency hotel bookings counter to see if there was any hope to salvage our Roman holiday. Luckily there was a three-star hotel nearby that had an opening all 7 nights, so we booked it. Then we had to go file a police report because the hostel had already received a 50 euro down payment from us. While sitting in the waiting room we met an American guy who works for GE that got his work laptop stolen. Talking to him, I was reminded about how much I like American men…mainly because you don’t get a creeped out feeling like they just want a piece of action with you. There was also this enraged old Italian man. In his anger he was tossing and turning while laying on a bench, and he ended up completely falling off of the bench and flailing everywhere. It was awesome to watch. The police yelled at him to get out, and as he was leaving he turns to us and says, “I am a-sorry. I am a-drunkee.” Good luck with that one, dude. When we finally got to our hotel it turned out we got the nicest room in the place, where we then stayed for the rest of the night just trying to comprehend the last 24 hours of our lives.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
The four of us got up at 9 and went down for our free continental breakfast (cereal, croissants, hard-boiled eggs, juice, tiny cups of coffee). We spent the morning going to the main branch of the national museum and to a crypt with the Rome Museum passes we bought. It was lots of old sculptures, coins, bowls, mosaics, etc. We then hopped a city bus to the Coliseum. We had packed our own lunches and ate them in the park next to the Coliseum and stared at its enormity and people watched. After lunch we went in and walked around inside and took some cool pics. It’s crazy to be in such an old and historical place like that. Then we went to the Roman Forum/Palentine Hill (lots of old ruins and freestanding columns where government buildings used to be), the Pantheon (general place of worship), and the Trevi Fountain. We grabbed some gelato (sugary and soft Italian ice cream) and did some souvenir shopping, too. A lot of the day was spent trying to configure a huge fold out map of the city and denying people who want to hand you flyers. If you walk with a purpose and look like you know what you’re doing, they’ll usually leave you alone. We ate dinner in our room from our stash of food because we were too tired and poor to go out to eat.
Friday, April 3, 2009
Another free breakfast, in which we stuffed our faces with the free food. We then hopped their (old and poorly-planned) underground metro and went west of the city to the Vatican. The first stop was St. Peter’s Basilica. We were speaking Spanish to each other so as not to be easy American targets for “free English tours” and such. There’s a prayer room in the basilica, and I prayed for all of the Youthworks kids I’m going to be coming into contact with this summer, that they will come to know Jesus as their personal Lord and Savior and learn how to be humble servants of Christ and show his love to the people in the community in which they will be serving. That was probably the coolest part. Otherwise, it was just very big and ornate and flashy. There were only two paintings of Jesus. It was hard knowing how much money the Vatican has and that there are so many of their Catholic followers who are starving or suffering. I’m pretty sure I’m simply way too Protestant to fully appreciate a place like that. After that we went to the Sistine Chapel. They led us all through an hour of boring other rooms before we got to the actual chapel with the famous ceiling and painting of God and man almost touching fingers. Every inch of the walls and ceiling was painted. It was a rectangular room and not super-huge, but I’m sure it seemed never-ending to Michelangelo! The security guards kept yelling “silence” and “no photo”, so that sort of ruined the ambiance. Later the four of us ate our lunch in the chapel’s courtyard, did some jewelry shopping J and got more gelato. That night we discovered our new favorite hole-in-the-wall Italian restaurant with the sweetest old man owner/waiter, Fernando. I got some delish salmon alfredo, which I will have to copy the recipe for when I return to the States.
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Grabbed breakfast and went to the neighborhood grocery store for milk and bread. We decided to check out an old route called the Appian Way. It’s basically a long street with very historic ruins, from gravesites to churches and houses of important people in Rome’s history. On our way there, we came up out of our subway stop and found ourselves smack dab in the middle of the biggest manifestation/protest I’d ever seen. Everyone was wearing red and had huge banners. We finally figured out that it was anti-Fascism. Very impressive. We rented some bikes to go on the Appian Way (which we were taking off jumps and riding in the fields), and stopped to tour the ancient San Sebastiano catacombs. They’re an intricate system on tunnels about four stories underground where they used to bury people to save on space. The one we were in was from the first century and held about 100,000 people. Again, very impressive. After being impressed all day we were tired, so we went back to our hotel for a three-hour nap. We ate dinner in our room, but later went out for drinks at a bar that only played Rihanna music. Then we bought books in English at a bookstore to read during our afternoon siesta times.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
We got up early and took the bus to the southwest part of Rome, also known as the Trastaveri area, to check out their famous market. It went as far as the eye could see, and we never did find the end to it. People were selling jewelry, sunglasses, purses, clothes, leather and fur coats, underwear, kid’s toys, small electronics, kitchen supplies, etc. Trisha and I were walking around together and almost walked right in the middle of a huge brawl. It started with one African guy selling sunglasses in front of an Indian man’s sunglasses stand. We stopped to watch what started out to be a verbal fight, but as more and more Africans and Indians got involved it started to get physical. Guys were throwing punches, tackling each other, and I even saw an Indian man swinging around a long metal pipe. The Indian man’s sunglasses tent ended up getting knocked down, so all those guys stopped to go help him set it up again quickly. At one point in the fight I grabbed Trisha and we moved 10 feet back, right as two guys tackled each other to the ground where we had been standing. It was intense. After all that commotion we made our way to the Bocca Della Verita famous Mouth of Truth statue that was in Audrey Hepburn’s movie “Roman Holiday”. Then we ate lunch in a nearby park and took a nap and read in the warm sun. When we finally felt like getting up, we went and shopped more in the Trastaveri area, got two gelatos, saw Luke Gaffney’s twin whipping a palm branch around, and Trisha found a 50 euro bill on the ground. Needless to say, she treated us to dinner that night at our favorite little restaurant with Fernando.
At 3:30AM we were woken up by aftershocks of a 6.3 Richter scale earthquake about 90 km away in L’Aquila. The aftershocks we felt were a 4.3-4.8 in Rome. I’m a pretty heavy sleeper, but I was woken up to what I thought was my friend Trisha tossing and turning in the bed. I asked her to stop moving, to which she replied, “I’m not.” I lay there stone still but swaying back and forth and listening to the loud noise of the building creaking. Kristi hollered from the other room, “What is that?!” and Trisha, trying to calm us down, said, “I think it’s just the wind.” Ashley was wide awake in the corner, but too scared to even say anything. We laid there for two or three minutes until I got lulled back to sleep again. Apparently Kristi stayed awake for another two hours, feeling mini aftershocks about every 15 minutes.
Monday, April 6, 2009
The next morning we woke up to emergency news coverage about some huge destructive earthquake the night before in a town about 45 minutes away and lots of cracks in the hotel room’s walls. We spent a good portion of the morning glued to the Italian news and attempting to make out exactly what had happened. That afternoon we went to the famous Spanish Steps and explored the ritzy shopping areas around it. The street right in front of the steps is absolutely mind-boggling: Jimmy Choo, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci, Guess, Valentino. You name it, it was there. The inner fashionista was going crazy and wondering why my bank account didn’t have a few extra zeroes at the end. J We did end up going to H&M and I got some cute navy shorts and a blue flowered sundress, so the day wasn’t a complete shopping waste. Later we went to their version of Central Park in northern Rome to eat our lunch, sit, and read for a few hours. Around 6 or 7 we went and got our favorite gelato of the trip at a place called Alice’s (right down the street from the Spanish steps for future reference). Then we went to the grocery store to stock up on some basics. We spent the night doing cucumber mask peels and playing cards.
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Today we decided to revisit all our favorite places in Rome. We walked back to the Trevi Fountain to do the famous “make a wish and toss a coin over your shoulder” tradition. We were hanging around taking pictures and thought this one man looked suspicious. I saw he was hiding something up his sleeve. He was looking pretty hard at the coins in the water, and then before we knew it he was leaning over the edge with a long metal TV antennae with a magnet on the end fishing out the one euro coins! The grungy old man was stealing wishes! He saw that we saw and started to follow us, and we bolted so fast, winding through the crowd just to lose him. Rome was actually full of homeless people begging during the day and sleeping in sleeping bags and on top of cardboard during the night. We learned pretty quickly where they were so we could avoid them. We continued down the street shopping for souvenirs, clothes, and got some gelato. Then we went to the park overlooking the Coliseum to eat lunch, talk, and do a mini photo shoot. (Trisha’s dad is a professional photographer and Ashley has a super-nice camera.) We went to a Murano colored glass store near our hotel later that afternoon and ended up talking (in English) to a cool old Italian lady who spoke 7 and a half languages (learning Russian) and who knew all about Charlie Chaplin, Shirley Temple, and old American music. She was hilarious; it was great. Later, as we were getting ready to go to the ballet, we felt another strong aftershock that was moving the doors and chandeliers. When we got to the Opera house to watch the ballet we saw there was a notice posted on the door that the light technicians and other workers had gone on strike and that the show was cancelled! We try to do cultured things, but life just won’t let us! On the way home we stopped by our favorite Italian restaurant to get a picture with the cute old man, Fernando, and he insisted we stay for awhile and gave us free breadsticks. Our favorite Italians are all the older ones.
Now read the Sevilla, Spain blog for the continuation of our trip!

Recognize this!

Roman Forum

Our BFF Fernando

Anti-fascist friends